Blogpost in English, didn't have time to translate...
Yes, I must admit, I am a fan of Ebbe Vollmers cooking. However, since Ebbe left Bloom in the park for his Denmark, UK & Singapore tour I've tried to catch up. And failed.
But all of a sudden he is back in my home town. And, he did bring his brother, Mats.
Both schooled at Gordon Ramsays Royal hospital road so yes, the level his high.
So, I may be partial but I'll try to give it a fair review :) The trend in Sweden has been that quite a few fine dining restaurants have changed into a gastro-bistro etc.
However. At vollmers, this is old school.
A modern, very strict but cosy greenish dining room. A long bar where you could have the a'la carte menu. Two menus, one that is Ebbes and one from Mats. 5 courses for a ridiculous low price (550 SEK, 60 EUR) or a eight course dinner for (850 SEK, 90 EUR) which is still very cheap for the quality served.
Of course we went for the eight course which is a blend of the two menus and as foodies a number of treats were added (a long with the canapés, the pre dessert and the coffee snacks) so this was quite a long dinner.
The quality is excellent, thanks to their long careers they have the network to find perfect lamb, perfect fois gras etc. All courses have the "vollmer touch" which is a minimalistic approach to fine dining with a few ingredient style, a plate that is not cluttered but with clear tastes, rather large pieces of everything.
The only drawback (from my personal point of view) was the apple tart that was fairly close to Fat duck's "Taffety tart" or cox's apple. It was excellent but not as surprising as their classic "boudin blanc" with mushroom purée.
And the wines. Yes, they're awesome. And so price worthy that you really can't get it :) (wine package for 8 course dinner at 650 SEK, 70 EUR)